How to get a completely flat wig install

Start with clean, deep-conditioned hair and a leave-in. Then dry it completely. Damp hair sealed under a cap and a wig stays damp for days, which leads to odor, itching and mildew.

Blow-dry on medium heat with a heat protectant to stretch your hair. Stretched hair braids thinner and lies flatter than shrunken hair.

TipIf you're short on time, stretch your hair with a few large twists or braids the night before instead of a blow-dryer.

This step decides how flat your install will be. Aim for 6 to 10 small cornrows going straight back toward the nape, with a little gel on each section so the braids lie tight and smooth.

• Keep every braid about the same size. One thick braid shows as one ridge.
• Tuck or sew the ends down flat at the nape, or wrap them around the back of the head. Never leave loose ends piled at the crown.
• If your hair is short, you can skip braids and slick it down flat with gel instead.
• Don't braid so tight that it pulls. Tension at the hairline causes breakage over time.

CheckRun your palm over your head. If you can feel a ridge, the wig will show it.

Pull the first cap on and smooth it back so it covers every braid. Apply a thin layer of glue or bonding spray just behind your hairline, let it get tacky, and press the cap into it. Add the second cap the same way. Two thin caps smooth over the little gaps between braids better than one.

Once they're set, cut the caps along your hairline, leaving a small margin, and cut openings for your ears. Tint or blend the cap into your skin with foundation so it disappears under the lace.

TipChoose a cap that matches your scalp, not your face. Your scalp is usually a shade lighter.

Put the wig on and adjust the back straps until it sits snug without squeezing. A loose wig slides and puckers; a tight one pulls the lace away from your forehead. If your wig doesn't have an adjustable band, sewing a thin elastic band across the back holds it close to your head all day.

• Hairline: line the lace up just in front of your natural hairline and make sure the wig's hairline sits evenly on both sides.
• Lace: cut the excess lace in small zig-zag strokes, following your hairline and leaving a tiny margin. Cut a little at a time; you can't add lace back.
• Knots and part: bleached knots and a gently plucked hairline make the part look like it's growing from your scalp.

Flip the lace back and wipe your hairline with alcohol to remove oil. Apply a thin layer of adhesive along the hairline and let it dry until it turns clear. Add a second thin layer, and a third if you want a longer hold.

Wait until the glue goes from white to clear and tacky, then lay the lace down, pressing it in from the center out to the ears with the end of a rat-tail comb. One thick layer of wet glue stays gummy, turns white and lifts at the edges.

Glueless optionA firm-hold bonding spray plus a tight melt band works for a day or two and is gentler on your edges.

Tie an elastic melt band or silk scarf firmly over the hairline and leave it on for 15 to 30 minutes while you do your makeup. The pressure flattens the lace into the glue so there's no visible edge.

After you remove the band, a light mist of setting spray or a few seconds of cool air from a blow-dryer helps the lace blend into your skin.

Use a flat iron or hot comb on a low setting with heat protectant to press the hair at the top and crown flat, following the direction it falls. This is where most "puffy" installs give themselves away.

Then style as you like: set your part, lay your edges if you wear them, and finish with a light shine spray. Keep product off the lace, since oil loosens the glue.

RemovalWhen it's time to take it off, soak the hairline with adhesive remover and let it dissolve the glue. Never peel lace off dry; that's how edges get pulled out.